It's all becoming a bit of a whirlwind but we are now in San Sebastián on the northern spanish Atlantic coast. And the preferred language here is Basque, something I did not bone up on before we left. Oh well, I guess we shall have to make do with pantomiming our dinner orders for a while.
The first thing you'll notice about San Sebastián (called Donestia in Basque) is that it is beautiful. I mean really really beautiful. The buildings are low rise, meticulously decorated and pastel coloured. You literally have to look hard to find an ugly one.
And the other thing you will immediately notice is that it is crowded.. It is a tourist Mecca and don't the tourists know it. The town is renowned as having more Michelin starred restaurants per capita then any other town in the world, foodie heaven in fact.
After checking into our quaint little Pension in the Old Town we thought a walk along the promenade to the Monte Igueldo look-out would be in order. The promenade was alive with people and they all had the same Idea by the looks of it. Buskers and hawkers, mums and dads, kids, tourists by the drove, dogs, you name it. They are particularly proud of their foreshore La Concha beach and property values on the shoreline defy description. But I have to say it really has to be some kind of special beach before anyone from Australia would be impressed by it. This one is the same. What they flock to see and pay a fortune to live on we have 1,000s of kilometres of.back home. Not to put anyone down, it kinda resembles Brighton beach.
We made it to the funicular station at the foot of Monte Igueldo, a trusty 100 year old cable car and rail arrangement that claws its way upwards to a lookout, a kiddie amusement park and a 5 star Mercure hotel at the top. But first we had to queue. Did I already mention crowds? The ticket line wound backwards and forwards in the building, out the door and for 60-70 metres down the footpath outside. 45 minutes of waiting and we were eventually aboard the grumbling and groaning old funicular. The crowds at the top were just as bad. Waiting in a queue that extended out the door for an ice-cream was not what we went up there to do though. So we took some photos for you from the top overlooking San Sebastián. It's a very pretty site. If you see other people in our photos don't worry. We were probably in their photos too.
We didn't stay that long up there and caught the funicular back down, after waiting in a queue of course. It is actually quite a hike right around the foreshore from end to end, so we wimped out and caught a bus instead.
And didn't we hit paydirt after dinner. Across the river from the Old Town is a bar the specialises in Gin and Tonics. La Gintoneria has raised the humble G&T to an art form I tell you. They can make them from dozens on different makes and flavours of gin, add just the right amount of juniper berries, crush them into some shredded ginger maybe for an enhanced taste, swizzle it with dry ice to make it cold and foggy, a few berry skewers for more taste, a spray of citric essence for a delicious smell, ice cubes by the glass full and finally some tonic. It is an artistic performance with a G&T finale. A bit pricey at 11 euros a glass, but they are large and especially delicious. Trust me.
The following morning (can you guess why I didn't blog the previous night?) we hit a couple of the famous gothic churches in the Old Town itself, and the Good Shepherd about a kilometre south of it.
Stunning gothic architecture and baroque interiors mostly. The piccies do a better job than I can.
The first thing you'll notice about San Sebastián (called Donestia in Basque) is that it is beautiful. I mean really really beautiful. The buildings are low rise, meticulously decorated and pastel coloured. You literally have to look hard to find an ugly one.
And the other thing you will immediately notice is that it is crowded.. It is a tourist Mecca and don't the tourists know it. The town is renowned as having more Michelin starred restaurants per capita then any other town in the world, foodie heaven in fact.
After checking into our quaint little Pension in the Old Town we thought a walk along the promenade to the Monte Igueldo look-out would be in order. The promenade was alive with people and they all had the same Idea by the looks of it. Buskers and hawkers, mums and dads, kids, tourists by the drove, dogs, you name it. They are particularly proud of their foreshore La Concha beach and property values on the shoreline defy description. But I have to say it really has to be some kind of special beach before anyone from Australia would be impressed by it. This one is the same. What they flock to see and pay a fortune to live on we have 1,000s of kilometres of.back home. Not to put anyone down, it kinda resembles Brighton beach.
We made it to the funicular station at the foot of Monte Igueldo, a trusty 100 year old cable car and rail arrangement that claws its way upwards to a lookout, a kiddie amusement park and a 5 star Mercure hotel at the top. But first we had to queue. Did I already mention crowds? The ticket line wound backwards and forwards in the building, out the door and for 60-70 metres down the footpath outside. 45 minutes of waiting and we were eventually aboard the grumbling and groaning old funicular. The crowds at the top were just as bad. Waiting in a queue that extended out the door for an ice-cream was not what we went up there to do though. So we took some photos for you from the top overlooking San Sebastián. It's a very pretty site. If you see other people in our photos don't worry. We were probably in their photos too.
We didn't stay that long up there and caught the funicular back down, after waiting in a queue of course. It is actually quite a hike right around the foreshore from end to end, so we wimped out and caught a bus instead.
And didn't we hit paydirt after dinner. Across the river from the Old Town is a bar the specialises in Gin and Tonics. La Gintoneria has raised the humble G&T to an art form I tell you. They can make them from dozens on different makes and flavours of gin, add just the right amount of juniper berries, crush them into some shredded ginger maybe for an enhanced taste, swizzle it with dry ice to make it cold and foggy, a few berry skewers for more taste, a spray of citric essence for a delicious smell, ice cubes by the glass full and finally some tonic. It is an artistic performance with a G&T finale. A bit pricey at 11 euros a glass, but they are large and especially delicious. Trust me.
The following morning (can you guess why I didn't blog the previous night?) we hit a couple of the famous gothic churches in the Old Town itself, and the Good Shepherd about a kilometre south of it.
Stunning gothic architecture and baroque interiors mostly. The piccies do a better job than I can.
A restored Roman viaduct just outside Pamplona.
Snapped through the streaky window of the train at 200kph. Lucky to get it at all really.
Picturesque villages, canola fields and scenery between Zaragoza and San Sebastián.
Our first view of San Sebastián.
The most beautiful city I have seen. Lots of picturesque low rise buildings everywhere.
And I mean all of them. This was typical of the river side.
The stately Hotel Maria Christina for those incline to stay there.
Us? We stayed in a Pension in the heart of the Old Town.
A bridge over the river with the performance hall in the background.
They will be doing Phantom of the Opera later this month.
The southern edge of the Old Town is marked by The Boulevard.
It is shoulder to shoulder restaurants, shops and eateries.
And crowds, lots and lots and LOTS of people.
Walking towards the beach promenade. Lots of people there too.
A busker on the promenade of La Concha, the main beach in San Sebastián.
This one played well with the visiting Brits.
A view along La Concha beach with the shoreside hotels.
Beachside appartments and hotels on La Concha.
Some beautiful private homes on the foreshore too.
Oh God, more modern art.
This sculpture is a tribute to the work of Fleming and his discovery of penicillin.
Can't you see it?
A pedestrian tunnel gets an abstract work over to resemble a walk thru aquarium.
Now this I liked.
We took the funicular up to Monte Igueldo.
There is the 5 star Mercure hotel and a kiddie amusement park at the top.
There are also the best views over San Sebastián to be had.
Great views over SAn Sebastian from Monte Igueldo.
The 100 year old funicular cable cars .
A little way across the bridge from the Old Town is a bar that specialises in Gin and Tonic.
It is a small performance piece to see them prepare the best G&T you will ever have.
First in go some juniper berries, maybe some ginger, a full measure of one of about 50 different gins, dry ice to make it cold and it all goes foggy. Great to watch and hours of fun to drink.
Jackie like Gin and Tonic.
Jackie LOVES La Gintoneria for just that reason.
Standing in the Old Town is the church of San Vicente.
That altar piece is a marvel of Baroque workmanship.
The entry to Basilica of Santa Maria at the other end of the same street in the Old Town.
A closer detail of the entry ornamentation.
The interior.
The street leading up to the Basilica. Still crowded as usual.
Advertisement for a new musical coming soon to San Sebastián.
The gardens in front of the town hall, the town hall and San Sebastián himself overlooking the city.
The Cathedral of the Good Shepherd, about a kilometre south of the Old Town.
A glorious structure in classical Gothic architecture, reminiscent of Notre Dame.
Another angle on the Good Shepherd and the flying buttresses.
The main spire in the background is undergoing restoration.
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