Monday, 13 May 2019

Ronda

They say that when someone in Ronda dies and goes to heaven, it's just another day to them.
And it seems we have lucked out again.
We thought we had arrived during the 24 hour bike race. In fact there was also a 24 hour foot race running at the same time as well as a 101 km in 24 hours forced march with full pack by a unit of the Legion Espanol, an elite unit of the Spanish army. They all ended at precisiely 11:00 am on Sunday morning near the Plaza de Toros. Everyone who came home, cyclist, runner or soldier under pack received rapturous applause from the large crowds lining the streets. The Army played a large part in the events organisation and had ambulance and medical facilities ready for use if needed and a huge marquis mess tent to provide a well-earned meal for the competitors as they finished.
No sooner had the 24 hour events finished then the religious parade started. The annual parading of the Virgen de la Paz through the streets of Ronda happens each year and we just happened to be here to see it. Bands accompany the parade of children making their first communion, dignified Spanish ladies in their beautiful mantillas, Spanish gentlemen in their suits or uniforms. And then of course comes the lady herself, carried on a float by 30 or so gentlemen wearing suits and religious orders. The are packed in tightly together under the carry poles and therefore must move in a slow synchronised lock step or risk stumbling into the man in front. The effect is a gracefully gentle swaying motion of the lady as she progresses through the streets of this beautiful town.
No one loves animals more than Jackie and myself, so bull fighting is totally abhorrent to us. But we did visit the Plaza de Toros in Ronda for its historical significance. While it is claimed as the home of modern bull fighting, and the names of famous bull fighters are readily found on the street signs around it we really could not be convinced that bull fights are a good idea. Admittedly the bulls are especially bred and treated like royalty right up until the moments before their untimely deaths, unlike their bovine beef brethren, but the entertainment value completely eluded us. But that's their thing and that's that.
We moved on to the Jardins de Cuenas. These beautiful gardens are skilfully terraced into the northern side of the gorge and descend down towards the Puente Viejo or old bridge. Since the Puente Nuevo or new bridge was built in the 1740's the old bridge really is pretty damned old. We crossed it and made an ascending climb up the beautiful winding streets of the old town and became hopelessly lost in the maze. Remarkably when we did find our way out it was just near our hotel. Go figure.
Take two. We walk down the Main Street, sticking to the Main Street this time, and came across the Murallas del Carmen, the Moorish built city walls and entry gate on the southern end of the old town.
Now came the fun part. The iconic landmark of Ronda is without a doubt the Puente Neuva, an 18th century bridge spanning the chasm of the Tajo gorge. The best photos are taken from inside the gorge itself. So down, down, down we climbed knowing full that every step of the descent would require an equal and opposite one of ascent later on. The work was very hard but the shots were worth all the effort, no doubt at all.
After the climb out of the gorge we walked/staggered/crawled to the Hemingway Bar near our hotel. He in common with Orson Welles has a long association with and a love of Spain and many of his books feature this. Indeed, we now know of the famous Running of the Bulls festival in Pamplona principally because Hemingway wrote of it.
After a nice refreshing jacuzzi we dressed up and went out to celebrate our 18th anniversary with a delicious dinner and authentic Flamenco show at the Quinque Restaruant. Our anniversary in Ronda was just the best.
Piccies below.


 One of the competitors finishing the gruelling 24 hour event.
All the runners came home to rapturous applause from the spectators.
Notice the army ambulance in the background? The army provided a great deal to the event generally.

Entrance to the Plaza del Torros, the bull ring in Ronda.
It is said that modern bull fighting originated here in Ronda.

Orson Welles was a big fan of bull fighting and of Ronda generally it must be said.
In fact he is buried here.

 The bull fighter's chapel.
A quick prayer before taking to the ring.

The bull ring also has a museum to bull fighting and to the elaborate livery of the horses.
  
The bull ring in Ronda.
It seats 5,000 and is now used for major public events and concerts.

El Tonio, the intrepid bull fighter.

The parade of the Virgen de la Paz.
After the 24 hour race was finished, the religious procession began.
Quite a busy Sunday in Ronda.

Children in religious vestments leading the parade.

These little girls are dressed for their first communion.
Notice also the suit worn by the little boy. Very sharp.

A the statue of the lady herself, La Virgen de la Paz.
The float itself weighs the better part of a tonne and is carried by 30 or so able gentlemen.
They are all packed in closely together and march in a perfect synchronous lock step.

 The Jardins de Cuena.
A beautiful terraced garden cascading down the very side of the Tajo gorge.

 The gardens provide some amazing views of the gorge and its buildings.
This is the Casa del Rey on the far side.

Climbing roses in the gardens are a very common planting.
There are some wonderful views to be had within the gardens too.

This is the Puente Viejo, the old bridge, built around 1720.
Not to be confused with the Puente Nuevo, the new bridge built around 1749.

 The view from the Puente Veijo, overlooking the Puente Arabe, or Arab bridge.
This is the third bridge over the gorge. You can also see the Banos Arabes (Arabian Baths) and the equestrian schools stables.

The southern end of Ronda was defended by the Moors with walls and towers.
The gorge looked after the northern end.
These are the Murallas del Carmen.

It damn near killed us but we climbed down into the gorge to get this shot of the famous Puente Nuevo in Ronda for you. Impressive, no?
Our hotel is amongst the buildings clinging to the cliff top on the right.

 A shot of the northern gorge wall.
A shear drop of more than a 100 metres in most places.

I couldn't leave out this shot of "Ferdinand" outside the Plaza del Torros.

For our Anniversary I took Jackie out for a meal and an authentic Flamenco performance.
I don't know anything about Flamenco, but start with Passion and work back from there.



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